What Is A Goodyear Welt?

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The Goodyear welt may be the biggest buzzword in mens shoes, but what exactly is it? The Goodyear welting method is an excellent method of building a shoe but it’s by no means the only method you should consider. The Blake stitch, Blake rapid, cementing, bologna, and Norwegian styles all have their pros and cons and it’s important to know which fills your need best.
Goodyear welt- comfortable, water resistant, but can be stiff at first.
Blake stitch- Close cropped sole for a sleek look, can wick moisture into the shoe and more difficult to resole.
Blar Rapid- A hybrid of Goodyear and Blake: stiffer than Blake but not as water resistant as Goodyear.
Cement- Cheap, flexible, best for “beater shoes” or sneakers.
Bologna- Extremely flexible, but not very water resistant or supportive.
Norwegian- The most water resistant, also the least flexible with a very noticeable welt.

Some awesome Goodyear welted boots:
-Red Wing Iron Ranger:
-Wolverine 1000 Mile:
-Thorogood Beloit:

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29 COMMENTS

  1. Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!

  2. So what is a Goodyear Welt? Do you really need 10 min video to explain? Just show it in 2 seconds:
    ´´A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that runs along the perimeter of a shoe outsole´´

  3. You really failed here and missed out on the major reason the Goodyear welt is valued. You touched a tiny bit on resoling cemented shoes. What you failed to emphasize is that a shoe or boot with very fine leather uppers and Goodyear welting can be recrafted to last decades; you don’t have to throw them away when the soles wear out. A pair of welted fine leather shoes or boots can even be passed down to family. I found Allen Edmonds Park Avenues and Fifth Avenues gently used on eBay for $59 and $87 respectively. These go for $395 to $425 retail. My “bargain” shoes are worth caring for, and I will be wearing them in 15-20 years — the fine upper leather can be conditioned to stay supple and beautiful for their entire life. Sorry, you dissed Goodyear welted shoes with your dismissive attitude. Show me a Blake stitched shoe that you will be wearing in 15 years. Thumbs down on this video. Big thumbs down.

  4. Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake – rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?

  5. Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles.
    At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.

  6. Love the content – thanks for the education! Having said that, I can see why people might criticize the Blake stitching methods (of either variety. Sounds to me like an outsized expense to get an aesthetic outcome with compromised water resistance (which I’d infer extends to a high cost to re-sole). Granted, it gives a higher degree of flexibility, but sounds like the Goodyear welt is a superior choice for me as I’d happily take short term stiffness for durability and water resistance (and all other things being equal, I tend to like the aesthetic of a more
    Prominent lip. Having said all that – thanks again!

  7. Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information…you should be a cobbler!!

  8. Great video!!!

    I am so chuffed!!! Yesterday my Thursday Captain boots got delivered, I wanted to see what the hype was all about😂

    I'm wearing them in around the house and they are very good indeed, I need to take them out and about bust so far, awesome!

  9. Odd video. Don't feel I know much more about a Goodyear welt, but I do know a bit more about other methods of shoe construction. He dedicated precisely two sentences to explaining what a Goodyear welt is, the rest was about what it's not, it's pros and cons, and other methods. There just wasn't much of an explanation of the Goodyear welt itself.

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